Behind the Design: Claw Earring

EVERY SUPERHERO HAS AN ORIGIN STORY:

How a simple design became the backbone of Yū|Mono

 

We're starting the AoW Behind the Design series with our all-time best-seller. Since its launch in 2017, the Claw earring has defined Yū|Mono's minimalist, edgy aesthetic and allowed us to build a brand around our accidental superhero.

 

I created the first Claw prototypes in 2016 during an Intro to Metalsmithing class at the local art academy. All I knew how to do at that point was bend wire and fire up a torch, but I was ready to take my newly acquired skills and see what I could do. In hindsight, I believe these limitations are what allowed me to create the Claw. By necessity, the design had to be extremely simple, and that forced me to be creative within the confines of my limited skillset. 

I didn’t (and still don’t) wear much jewelry, but I decided to fashion myself a pair of earrings I could wear 24/7. My requirements for my new earring is that it had to:

  • Be comfortable enough wear every day
  • Be something unique that I couldn't find in a store
  • Be simple enough for my beginner self to make

Staple earring and other early designs (c. 2016)

Earlier that year, I began making rudimentary earrings from pieces of gold-filled wire and selling them at popup shops and on Etsy (does anyone remember the Staple and Wishbone earrings?). The Claws, however, were the first design I was genuinely excited about because they felt like me. I’d always been a bit of a tomboy and didn’t have the easiest time finding jewelry that spoke to me, so the Claws were a revelation in my personal style.

It took me a few tries to perfect the shape. I wanted to create a more secure version of our earlier threader earrings, with a comfortable, rounded back that didn’t require a separate backing. The final Claw design featured a 90-degree bend to prevent it from rotating out of the piercing, along with a long “claw” that hooked onto the earlobe.

 

Testing out one of the early Dot Claws

The very first Claws were the Dot and Linear Claws. I was mesmerized by the way molten metal sucks itself up into a perfect sphere the moment it liquefies, and equally fascinated by how solder flows into the tiniest seam between two pieces of metal, chasing the pull of a flame. For the Linear Claw, I chose a square bar because its flat surface reflects light more beautifully than a round bar. Seeing such a small design choice create a noticeable impact in the final piece taught me the importance of intentional details.

The Small Diamond Claws came next, once I learned to set stones in a prong setting. They were known as Gem Claws back then, and were white topaz instead of diamond. 

After testing them on myself for a few months—and fielding countless requests from friends to start selling them—I officially launched the Claws with Yū|Mono in 2017. Thanks to an Instagram algorithm that favored small businesses at the time, they quickly became a hit and helped us build a loyal following.

Early Claw iterations (c. 2017)

 

I was awed and overjoyed that other people wanted these tiny little earrings too. To my surprise, the demand kept growing. In all honesty, the Claw earring is what allowed me to forgo a career in psychology and run Yū|Mono full-time. 

 

Late night Claw production

 

For years, I made each Claw by hand—finishing entire television series at my bench while shaping and soldering late into the night (True Blood, Mad Men, Gossip Girl, just to name a few. Not to mention the entire Harry Potter audiobook series). Eventually, the orders outpaced what my two hands could keep up with. At times, keeping the Claws in stock has been a challenge, but we’ve been fortunate to partner with skilled manufacturers who share our values and commitment to quality. Over the years, we’ve built lasting relationships with artisans, retailers, and fellow designers—all thanks to this little earring

One of our most meaningful relationships has been with FinAbility, a nonprofit organization dedicated to empowering survivors of domestic abuse with the skills and resources to become financially secure. I was introduced to the founder, Stacey, through a mutual friend and was inspired by her mission. A portion of sales from all Claw earrings directly support FinAbility through our Claws for a Cause campaign.


The Enso and Linear Chain Claws, from concept to reality (c. 2019)

 

We’ve branched out to different kinds of jewelry over the past few years—flat back earrings, pendants, hinged hoops, and a few experimental designs—which meant the Claws were sidelined for a time. But this year, we’re returning to where it all started: I’m excited to announce that we’re launching NEW CLAWS this fall. 

 

 

Ultimately, the Claw earrings were a result of play. Taking new skills and new materials, and moving them around in my mind and with my hands until they became something that made me happy. It’s the purest expression of creativity, and something that convinced me that this is what I want to do with my life.

Shop all Claws here